I think i am being observed - computer is acting odd.

moscow 21.35 uk 6.35

bit more time tonight so i hope to write a bit more. first of all the hotel - it is not too bad, have stayed in far worse courtesy of the bank. The reception feels like a real throw back to Soviet days though - all huge hall and shiny counters and floo. dining room is the same - massive with wooden style tables and lots of space between tables - designed to be slightly intimidating i guess.

the metro is really very good - takes a bit of understanding because there seem to be three types of language to understand. took me an hour and a half when i got here to work it out. asked a pretty girl and got the moscow stare - probably because ehe thought i was hitting on her. I was not - anyway, moscow stare = stare at someone as if they are not even there without batting an eyelid. look on the side of the tunnel - always right to left and the names will correspond to the map. some of the intersections are tricky but its generally ok.

they also strickly follow the stand on the right protocol - goo for them. Interestingly, there is a babushka in a box at the bottom of each escalator staring at screens which show cctv images. a bit odd i though at first but then it dawned on me - must be safety thing to see escalator is ok. nice touch but not much of a career.

lenin was closed today - shame but not really a surprise - been told that it can happen quite often. no gags about hanging around today afraid. Red square is really wierd. Firstly its not that big - say leicester square twice - secondly, kremlin on one side and GUM dept store on the other. GUM is a bastion of capitalism and must have always been to a certain extent? wierd.

Another wierd thing about red square. I can see how Breshnev and Kruschev et al got all their toys in on those big parades, but it must have been a hell of a job getting them out the other side. I would not like to drive a ICBM (inter continental ballistic misile to you and me) out of there. I can just visual the conversation that may have gone siomething like this:" got a bit of a problem comrade Kruschev, those toys we built in between building lots of tractors, you know, the ones that go bang, well we have not worked out how to get them out the other side of the square once every one has seen them and cheered"

At which point, general 3 star is replaced and sent off to the kgb building up the road. speaking of which, that is a huge almost non-descript building but looks slightly scary now. apparently ther was a massive prison built underneath where many hundreds of thousands of people were taken and disposed of.

It feels quite strange walking around with a camera taking pics all over the place - it does not seem to be that long ago (certainly no more than 25 years) when having a camera in moscow would simple be out of the question - now noone bats an eyelid - not the police or the red army.

the whole of the centre of moscow round red square is a wonderful lively cultural beacon. its a really buzzing place - quite easily just hang around and waste some time there. Be good.

went to sparrow hill this afternoon (not strawberry - must have had draycott on my mind) The moscow state university is up there - great building, another showpiece place. strawberry hill gives a view over the whole of moscow, great on a good day which it was today, and sun was setting on the way back so got sdome pics which hopefully turn out to be good.

wanted to buy a generals hat from a seller up there - got into negotiation mode but could not find one that fitted. got a leather flying hat though - negotiations went how much, 3500 roubles, i'll givew you 2000, my children and wife etc etc, no its 2000 or nothing. the lowest i can go is 2800 - i loose money then anyway. i'll buy now at 2500. we agreed the deal at 2500!! I bartered for a flying hat with a Russian junk seller on sparrow hill! Brilliant!

I somehow knew moscow would be great - lots more to write some day I hope, but I was thinking the best way of summing it up is that moscow just is, you can take it or you can leave it, but moscow just is!

run out of time, as promised to myself, not read through or edited!

till next time